Skoda Octavia Power Tailgate Strut Motor Current Draw Test
When a Skoda Octavia’s power tailgate slows to a crawl or stops halfway open, the strut motor is often the first suspect — but before you replace it, a current draw test tells you exactly what’s going on inside that electric strut.
TL;DR
The power tailgate struts on a Skoda Octavia (2013+ Estate/Liftback) are 12V DC electric motors that operate the tailgate open and close. A current draw test measures how many amps the strut motor pulls during operation, which reveals whether the motor is healthy, binding, or failing. The normal working current is around 5 amps, while a stalled or binding motor can spike to 20+ amps and trigger an overcurrent fault. You need a low-amp clamp meter (able to read 5-30A DC) or a series-connected multimeter rated for at least 10A. This test helps you avoid replacing a strut that’s actually fine — or catch a failing one before it strands you with a stuck tailgate.
Key Takeaways
- Normal operating current: ~5A per strut motor under normal load
- Quiescent (standby) current: <2mA when the tailgate isn’t moving
- Stall/overcurrent threshold: 20A+ indicates binding or a failing motor
- Low-amp clamp meter is the safest tool — no need to disconnect wiring
- Series multimeter works but requires disconnecting the strut connector
- A binding tailgate (bad hinges, weak gas struts) can cause high current draw, not just a bad motor
- Scan tool actuator test can confirm if the motor receives commands from the control module
How the Power Tailgate Strut Works
The Octavia’s power tailgate system uses electric struts that replace the traditional gas struts. Inside each strut is a 12V DC motor with a gearbox and a spindle mechanism.
When you press the tailgate button:
- The body control module sends voltage to the strut motor
- The motor spins, turning the spindle
- The spindle extends or retracts the strut, moving the tailgate
- A position sensor inside the strut tells the module where the tailgate is
Here’s the thing most owners miss: those struts aren’t just simple motors. They have electronics inside that communicate with the car. When one fails, you often get a fault code like “open circuit” even if the motor still spins on the bench.
Why Test Current Draw?
A current draw test tells you how hard the motor is working. That’s valuable information:
| Current Reading | What It Means |
|---|---|
| ~5A during operation | Normal — motor working as designed |
| <1A or 0A | Motor not receiving power or internally open |
| 10-15A | Motor working harder than normal — possible binding or early failure |
| 20A+ spike | Stall condition — module will likely set overcurrent fault |
| >2mA when parked | Parasitic draw — could drain battery overnight |
A motor that pulls low current but doesn’t move has an internal mechanical failure. A motor that pulls high current is fighting something — either internal binding or external resistance (bad hinges, misaligned tailgate).
Tools You Need
Option 1: Low-Amp Clamp Meter (Recommended)
A low-amp clamp meter that reads DC current in the 0-30A range is the easiest and safest tool. You simply clamp it around one of the motor wires and read the current while the tailgate operates.
Key spec: The clamp must be rated for DC current, not just AC. Many cheap clamp meters only read AC amps.
Best choice: A clamp with a small jaw opening designed for low-current measurements. Large-jaw clamps (for battery cables) often can’t read below 200mA accurately and are useless for this test.
Option 2: Multimeter in Series
A digital multimeter rated for 10A DC can work, but you must:
- Disconnect the strut motor connector
- Connect the meter in series with the motor circuit
- Set the meter to the 10A DC range
Warning: This method is riskier. If you accidentally operate the tailgate while the meter is in the low-current range, you’ll blow the meter’s internal fuse.
Inline fuses made for automotive use can protect your expensive meter fuses. Keep a few spares.
Step-by-Step Current Draw Test
Safety note: Always ensure the tailgate area is clear before operating. Keep hands and tools away from pinch points. Follow local safety regulations.
Preparation
- Fully charge the battery — low voltage skews current readings
- Remove the tailgate trim to access the strut wiring connectors
- Locate the strut motor connector — usually a 2-pin connector on the strut body
- Identify the motor power wires — typically the thicker of the wires in the connector
Method A: Clamp Meter Test
- Clamp the meter around one of the motor power wires (either positive or negative — it doesn’t matter, as long as you only clamp one wire)
- Set the meter to DC amps, 0-30A range
- Press the tailgate button to open the tailgate
- Watch the current reading as the tailgate moves
- Repeat for closing
What to look for: A healthy motor shows a brief spike at startup (normal inrush), then settles to a steady ~5A during movement. The current should be consistent throughout the travel — spikes or fluctuations suggest binding.
Method B: Series Multimeter Test
- Disconnect the strut motor connector
- Connect the meter leads between the two halves of the connector (meter in series with the circuit)
- Set the meter to 10A DC
- Operate the tailgate and read the current
- Reconnect the connector when done
If you’re nervous about blowing a fuse, use an inline automotive fuse (5-10A) in series with your meter leads.
What the Readings Tell You
Normal Reading: ~5A
The motor pulls about 5 amps during normal operation. This is the baseline. Some variation is normal depending on temperature and battery voltage.
Low Reading (<2A) with No Movement
The motor isn’t getting enough power, or the internal winding is open. Check the wiring and connector first — a loose or corroded connector can cause this.
High Reading (10-15A)
The motor is working harder than it should. Possible causes:
- Binding hinges — tailgate alignment or worn hinge pins
- Weak gas struts — the electric motor is carrying more weight than designed
- Internal strut wear — the spindle or gearbox is binding
Very High Reading (20A+)
This is a stall condition. The module will likely set an overcurrent fault and stop the tailgate. Do not continue operating — you risk burning out the motor or the control module.
The system monitors for “drive motor stall current of over 20 amps” and sets a fault if it persists.
High Quiescent Current (>2mA)
The strut motor should draw less than 2mA when parked. If you measure more, the strut may not be shutting down properly — a potential parasitic drain that will kill your battery overnight.
The Scan Tool Advantage
Before pulling out a meter, a scan tool can do a lot of the diagnostic work.
Most Škoda-compatible scan tools (OBDeleven, VCDS, Carista) have an “Actuator Test” or “Output Test” function for the tailgate module. This lets you:
- Command the strut motor to operate without pressing the button
- Read live data including motor current if the module supports it
- Check for fault codes like “open circuit” on either motor
If the scan tool can operate the motor but the button can’t, the problem is in the button or wiring — not the motor.
Octavia Power Tailgate Model Comparison
| Model/Generation | Strut Type | Motor Connector | Rated Voltage | Working Current | Quiescent Current |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Octavia III (5E) Estate | Electric spindle strut | 2-pin single row | 12V DC | ~5A | <2mA |
| Octavia III (5E) Liftback | Electric spindle strut | 2-pin | 12V DC | ~5A | <2mA |
| Octavia IV (NX) Estate | Electric spindle strut | Similar design | 12V DC | ~5A | <2mA |
| Octavia Pro | Electric spindle strut | Model-specific | 12V DC | ~5A | <2mA |
The strut motors themselves are available from aftermarket suppliers with part numbers 575827851 series for Octavia III models.
FAQ
What is the normal current draw for a Skoda Octavia power tailgate strut motor?
Approximately 5 amps during operation. The motor may spike briefly higher at startup, then settle to this steady draw.
What current indicates a failing tailgate strut motor?
Readings above 10A suggest the motor is working too hard — possible internal wear or external binding. 20A or higher is a stall condition that will trigger a fault.
Can I test the strut motor current without a clamp meter?
Yes, with a multimeter in series with the motor circuit. Use the 10A DC range and be careful not to short the meter’s low-current circuit.
What causes high current draw in a power tailgate strut?
Binding hinges, weak gas struts, misaligned tailgate, or internal strut failure. Check mechanical components first before blaming the motor.
Will a scan tool tell me the motor current?
Some modules report live current data. Most scan tools can at least command the motor to operate, which confirms whether the motor receives power.
How do I test the strut motor with an external power source?
You can apply 12V directly to the motor terminals to see if it spins. If it spins freely, the motor itself works — the problem is in the control or wiring.
What is the quiescent current specification for the power tailgate?
Less than 2mA when the system is in sleep mode. Higher readings indicate a parasitic drain.
Final Thoughts
Testing the current draw on your Octavia’s power tailgate strut motor is a quick diagnostic that separates a bad motor from a bad mechanism. ~5A means healthy. 20A+ means something’s binding or failing.
A clamp meter makes this test safe and easy — no disconnecting wiring, no risking your multimeter’s fuse. And before you replace a strut, always check the mechanical side: hinges, alignment, and gas strut condition.
Always work safely around moving tailgate mechanisms and follow local regulations.
Which Skoda model best fits your driving needs? Share your thoughts in the comments.
References:
- KM Auto Space – Skoda Octavia Power Tailgate Specifications (Working Current: 5A, Quiescent Current: <2mA)
- Charm.li – B196A Power Liftgate Close Direction Overcurrent (20A stall threshold)
- AAMC University – Parasitic Current Draw Testing (Amp clamp selection, meter protection)
- ATTS Training – Testing Actuators Using Current/Amp Clamp (Low-amp probe usage)
- Fruugo – Octavia III Power Lift Support (72W motor, 2-pin connector specs)
